When I moved back to Civray, I mistakenly thought the ad for my house meant it was 5 minutes outside of Civray, not 5 minutes outside of a village that is a 10 minute drive from Civray. While the commute to work is fantastic still, I really preferred living somewhere walking distance from all of the shops and restaurants of Civray.
To better acquaint myself with my new village, I took a walk in the opposite direction towards the town. It is quite common to see people walking into town, so I wasn't out of place on the country roads. It is incredible to see the old buildings that are here, like this old farming structure that appears to possibly be in use today?
As it turns out, my current village does not have trash pick up at your house, you have to take it to the communal drop off, which is here. The yellow bins are for recycling . . . and by the end of the week, the black bins are QUITE full. The whole trash thing was the moment when I determined that my permanent residence would be IN Civray and not a neighboring community! Hauling my trash to a central repository is just a big NO for me.
I did manage to find the infamous "dépôt de pain," which serves as the local bakery since there isn't one. I've read that the pastries are so good they sell out in the morning, but you can reserve one for pick-up on your way to work, which might be my plan for the next few months! Fresh pastry always beats day-old pastry! I also like the idea here that a standard store wasn't feasible, but adding a little building onto a large empty parking lot suited the size of the town and made for a convenient location.
During my walk into town, in search of the one restaurant that was listed (never found it and may not exist now), I saw that a "brocante" was in Civray on one of the signs and, let's face it, there's really NOTHING happening on Sundays in rural France normally. I headed on down and my American co-worker joined me. It was a fun few hours looking at antiques, decorative items and junk that people were trying to sell, plus some rather nice collections of antiques for viewing.
While enjoying a coffee after, the mayor of Civray dropped by our table since he's aware of the invading Americans working in his region. We had a nice chat and, despite not normally giving the bisou (cheek kiss) to strangers, we kissed the mayor! The older French ladies were quite shocked! I'm not sure they were as shocked as us Americans were at this antique French lighter though - yes, the flame comes out exactly where it appears it does, along with little red blinking lights on the ta-tas.
If you were ever curious what happens on a Sunday in a sleepy French country town, here's a peak at the collections that were on display. First, some older clothing with some truly impressive headgear!
And a lovely display of antique hats! There were many other collections, in addition to the brocante area where you could buy things.
My co-worker is also convinced that I'm going to have good luck in France because she's been looking for this antique cat box she saw in a perfume store (which she showed me the day before), then I found one at the brocante! I told her I'm more convinced that perhaps I've brought HER good luck by coming to France. :-)
I believe the best part of these little village events is the chance to greet your neighbors and have a quick chat. It seemed many people were socializing, not just shopping. When we took a quick walk around the rest of Civray, I was very happy to find a kebab shop that is open Sundays for dinner (!) and to learn that the beer bar is not only open on Sunday evenings, but open until 2 du matin (!!!) (aka AM) on Friday and Saturday - could it be that Civray actually has a weekend nightlife?!? We've decided that a mission to the beer bar is in order!
The day before all of these local adventures, I went up to Poitiers to do a little shopping because I was in serious need of a fall/spring coat. I found one that I loved, but one thing that I had read online (and witnessed for myself) is that French women show much less cleavage, but a visible bra is not an issue - like "black bra under a white shirt" visible. What I was NOT aware of was that "headlights" are potentially also a "thing." It appears they may not only be acceptable, but desirable enough that you can purchase a bra that will provide them for you! I'm really not quite sure what to think here!
Lastly, I return to my love of chèvre. This is a cheese so versatile that it featured prominently in both my dinner AND my dessert. First, a chèvre lasagna (with eggplant and pesto) that was quite good and then chèvre with fruit, nuts, salt, pepper and honey for dessert . . . I know, it sounds weird to an American palette, but it was DEVINE. I really cannot get enough of French cuisine! Even better, I can somehow eat like this over here and actually lose weight.
And while I really only went to buy a coat and new jeans, I ended up with a new skirt and sweater . . . and a matching scarf, of course! It's almost impossible not to find gorgeous, well-cut clothing here. If I can limit myself to one new outfit per month, I think I can avoid going broke!
Thursday, October 13, 2016
Tuesday, October 11, 2016
Bonus Post: Transitioning to LIVING in France
As I'm learning, there are many differences when you will be living permanently in France. The first is that you have to change many things over - your cell phone, all of your addresses & phone numbers (some of which require you to keep a US address and phone number), utilities, bank accounts, etc. I thought I'd share a few things that I've learned in a bonus Tuesday edition (Thursday will be full of photos of life in my new village!)
Once I arrived, the first issue is filling out the paperwork and supplying the required documents to be issued a French social insurance number. Since I have a permanent French position as a financial Controller, I am paid through French payroll and contribute to French social security taxes (which are, by the way, crazy high). The upside is that I am also eligible for French social benefits, assuming I ever need them.
I'd heard that customer service isn't as big of a thing in France as the US, so I wasn't that surprised when Orange sent the wrong SIM card for my phone, then somehow sent one on Oct 3 that arrived on the same day as the one sent on Oct 6 (although, this was perhaps the fault of the mail system?); however, by October 7, I had a functional French cell phone. TIP #1 for US Ex-Pats: I installed Sideline on my phone before I left the US and picked a number. I now have a local US number that my friends can text or call; however, it does not work for things like bank confirmations nor security confirmations from websites. I've listed this as my "home" number (with no cell number). So far, this setup is going well.
I'm fortunate that a large British ex-pat community has settled in this area because it means that bilingual services are much more common than might otherwise be the case. TIP #2 for US Ex-Pats: Credit Agricole is a French bank that has a special English-speaking team to assist you, which is fantastic when you're still trying to learn the language! They do require proof that you're employed and either a utility bill or French housing contract to prove you also have a home (UPDATE: my French rental contract wasn't sufficient, but a letter of attestation that I had rental insurance was). Of course, this could be a bit tricky given you need to pay someone to get a home - again, having a British owner helped because I just wired them cash from my US account in advance (after signing a contract, of course).
There's also the issue of obtaining mandatory rental insurance, which also includes a special social insurance in case you accidentally hurt someone or their property. This is apparently the French way of avoiding American-style lawsuits over everything!
While everything required to integrate into French society is a little cumbersome, I am quite happy to be back eating French food! It really is just a whole different way of eating and I haven't missed my protein breakfasts at all - just a lovely pain au chocolat avec du café (with espresso) does the trick for me!
One of the things that I missed the most in the US is the sheer variety of foods that are available here when eating out. The restaurants serve a revolving menu of whatever is fresh from the market, so I'm currently seeing vegetables, such as eggplant, that vary from what was more common in the spring. I also enjoy the fact that virtually every starter and main dish comes with a tiny salad (like 5 bites) of mixed greens with a light dressing that is a sort of vinaigrette, but very mild on the vinegar. I have no idea what is in it, but it seems like essentially the same salad dressing is used at every French restaurant I've been to and it is 10x better (to me) than any salad dressing I've ever had in the US (where I typically avoid ordering any sort of salad because I don't like the way they taste). It has just enough oil, just enough kick and is so lightly applied that it is perfect. Of course, my first indicator at a couple of restaurants that the food wasn't going to be the best was that the salad dressing was heavily applied - this is truly a warning sign in France!
I also believe that I have eaten chèvre every day since I returned to France - chèvre and bacon baguette, chèvre and ham baguette, chèvre with a veggie crumble, hot chèvre salad . . . it is truly one of my favorite things about French cuisine! Chèvre is equally good in a salad of pine nuts and sun dried tomatoes as it is in a salad with fruit and pumpkin bread slices. The different variations of hot chèvre salad in France are truly spectacular - in fact, I've decided to photograph all of the types of hot chèvre salad that I come across this time to demonstrate how incredibly diverse this ONE (very, very super delicious) dish can be!
Once I arrived, the first issue is filling out the paperwork and supplying the required documents to be issued a French social insurance number. Since I have a permanent French position as a financial Controller, I am paid through French payroll and contribute to French social security taxes (which are, by the way, crazy high). The upside is that I am also eligible for French social benefits, assuming I ever need them.
I'd heard that customer service isn't as big of a thing in France as the US, so I wasn't that surprised when Orange sent the wrong SIM card for my phone, then somehow sent one on Oct 3 that arrived on the same day as the one sent on Oct 6 (although, this was perhaps the fault of the mail system?); however, by October 7, I had a functional French cell phone. TIP #1 for US Ex-Pats: I installed Sideline on my phone before I left the US and picked a number. I now have a local US number that my friends can text or call; however, it does not work for things like bank confirmations nor security confirmations from websites. I've listed this as my "home" number (with no cell number). So far, this setup is going well.
I'm fortunate that a large British ex-pat community has settled in this area because it means that bilingual services are much more common than might otherwise be the case. TIP #2 for US Ex-Pats: Credit Agricole is a French bank that has a special English-speaking team to assist you, which is fantastic when you're still trying to learn the language! They do require proof that you're employed and either a utility bill or French housing contract to prove you also have a home (UPDATE: my French rental contract wasn't sufficient, but a letter of attestation that I had rental insurance was). Of course, this could be a bit tricky given you need to pay someone to get a home - again, having a British owner helped because I just wired them cash from my US account in advance (after signing a contract, of course).
There's also the issue of obtaining mandatory rental insurance, which also includes a special social insurance in case you accidentally hurt someone or their property. This is apparently the French way of avoiding American-style lawsuits over everything!
While everything required to integrate into French society is a little cumbersome, I am quite happy to be back eating French food! It really is just a whole different way of eating and I haven't missed my protein breakfasts at all - just a lovely pain au chocolat avec du café (with espresso) does the trick for me!
One of the things that I missed the most in the US is the sheer variety of foods that are available here when eating out. The restaurants serve a revolving menu of whatever is fresh from the market, so I'm currently seeing vegetables, such as eggplant, that vary from what was more common in the spring. I also enjoy the fact that virtually every starter and main dish comes with a tiny salad (like 5 bites) of mixed greens with a light dressing that is a sort of vinaigrette, but very mild on the vinegar. I have no idea what is in it, but it seems like essentially the same salad dressing is used at every French restaurant I've been to and it is 10x better (to me) than any salad dressing I've ever had in the US (where I typically avoid ordering any sort of salad because I don't like the way they taste). It has just enough oil, just enough kick and is so lightly applied that it is perfect. Of course, my first indicator at a couple of restaurants that the food wasn't going to be the best was that the salad dressing was heavily applied - this is truly a warning sign in France!
I also believe that I have eaten chèvre every day since I returned to France - chèvre and bacon baguette, chèvre and ham baguette, chèvre with a veggie crumble, hot chèvre salad . . . it is truly one of my favorite things about French cuisine! Chèvre is equally good in a salad of pine nuts and sun dried tomatoes as it is in a salad with fruit and pumpkin bread slices. The different variations of hot chèvre salad in France are truly spectacular - in fact, I've decided to photograph all of the types of hot chèvre salad that I come across this time to demonstrate how incredibly diverse this ONE (very, very super delicious) dish can be!
Friday, October 7, 2016
Scarves, scarves and more scarves . . . And photos of Le Mans!
It's fun to notice random small changes that I've already made. I find myself searching the internet for "best ways to wear a scarf" when I've never really been into them at home. I find that I'm buying more solid color (like black) items and using colorful accessories to dress them up. That's not to say I've traded in my American clothes, nor do I plan to. I'm happy to adapt to the culture, but for now I still want to keep certain things the same.
On the topic of scarves, French women wear them in a 100 different ways that all look perfect; mine still look like a 5 year old dressed me, but I'll get there! I spend far too much time currently staring at French scarves and trying to figure out how to properly pull one off. I think I managed on my first day back in France though with the classic "fold in half and pull through the loop" style I learned many years ago in New York.
I meant to add my Le Mans photos to my first post, but things got busy and it was set to post on Thursday, so you have a photo-less post! So, here are a few pictures of Le Mans! First, a view of the city from my hotel - a pretty typical French town.
When I first arrived in Le Mans, I knew I needed to get out in the sun and get active to fight off jet lag. I wasn't sure where anything really was, but I'd already left the hotel with no real internet access, so I just followed what appeared to be the main road. I knew that properties were quite affordable in Civray, but was curious about Le Mans when I passed by a real estate shop. As it turns out, they're quite affordable compared to Portland as well - about $280k USD for brand new house - 3 bedroom, 2 car garage! Turns out that moving to an actual city after a few years is a legitimate possibility.
I took a couple of other random pictures as I walked around and found my way to a path by the river. First, the local "sporting" hotel. I'm not entirely certain what differentiates a "sporting" hotel from other sorts of hotels, but there you have it:
I also found this old, partially burnt out building interesting. Most buildings here are made of stone, not wood structures like at home, so it's uncommon for something to actually burn to the ground or "burn down." Curious what happened here though - perhaps it was a hookah incident given the hookah signs?
It was a real challenge to find somewhere to eat dinner on Sunday night, even in a bigger city like Le Mans; however, I was there because it was cheaper/easier to ride into work with PB the next day, so he made sure I didn't starve! He very thoughtfully chose to look for an open restaurant near the Cathedral so I could see the most beautiful part of the city, which it certainly was! I had thought I couldn't really be impressed by French churches anymore, since I've seen so many of them, but the exterior architecture of this one was extraordinary. A short climb up the stairs took us to a meandering walk through the picturesque "old city," which retains enough of it's original look that I'm told it is often used for period films.
Unfortunately, none of the restaurants with an actual view of the cathedral were open for dinner, so a slight modification of the plans was necessary, but there was a small restaurant open in the old village, so we weren't forced to find the nearest McDonald's!
On the topic of scarves, French women wear them in a 100 different ways that all look perfect; mine still look like a 5 year old dressed me, but I'll get there! I spend far too much time currently staring at French scarves and trying to figure out how to properly pull one off. I think I managed on my first day back in France though with the classic "fold in half and pull through the loop" style I learned many years ago in New York.
I meant to add my Le Mans photos to my first post, but things got busy and it was set to post on Thursday, so you have a photo-less post! So, here are a few pictures of Le Mans! First, a view of the city from my hotel - a pretty typical French town.
When I first arrived in Le Mans, I knew I needed to get out in the sun and get active to fight off jet lag. I wasn't sure where anything really was, but I'd already left the hotel with no real internet access, so I just followed what appeared to be the main road. I knew that properties were quite affordable in Civray, but was curious about Le Mans when I passed by a real estate shop. As it turns out, they're quite affordable compared to Portland as well - about $280k USD for brand new house - 3 bedroom, 2 car garage! Turns out that moving to an actual city after a few years is a legitimate possibility.
I took a couple of other random pictures as I walked around and found my way to a path by the river. First, the local "sporting" hotel. I'm not entirely certain what differentiates a "sporting" hotel from other sorts of hotels, but there you have it:
I also found this old, partially burnt out building interesting. Most buildings here are made of stone, not wood structures like at home, so it's uncommon for something to actually burn to the ground or "burn down." Curious what happened here though - perhaps it was a hookah incident given the hookah signs?
It was a real challenge to find somewhere to eat dinner on Sunday night, even in a bigger city like Le Mans; however, I was there because it was cheaper/easier to ride into work with PB the next day, so he made sure I didn't starve! He very thoughtfully chose to look for an open restaurant near the Cathedral so I could see the most beautiful part of the city, which it certainly was! I had thought I couldn't really be impressed by French churches anymore, since I've seen so many of them, but the exterior architecture of this one was extraordinary. A short climb up the stairs took us to a meandering walk through the picturesque "old city," which retains enough of it's original look that I'm told it is often used for period films.
Unfortunately, none of the restaurants with an actual view of the cathedral were open for dinner, so a slight modification of the plans was necessary, but there was a small restaurant open in the old village, so we weren't forced to find the nearest McDonald's!
Thursday, October 6, 2016
Finally in France!
I find it hilarious that my French friend, Rita, teases me constantly about becoming a traitor to my country and abandoning it for France. The French are under the impression that the US doesn't really support its ex-pats (it doesn't) and, unlike in many countries where living abroad is just an adventure, Americans (at home) are more inclined than many other nationalities to perceive ex-pats as having rejected the country altogether.
Of course, this same friend says that I have a French soul, so perhaps I have rejected my home country in some ways.
I'd like to think that, rather than rejecting the US and US culture in choosing to move, it's more that I can see the pros and cons of both countries and have acknowledged that French culture suits my natural personality better. There are aspects of US culture that feel unnatural to me or fake (and always have), yet the "norm" in French culture is more consistent with how I'd prefer to live my life and interact with others.
Having said that, there are things that are still an adjustment, such as learning that you generally wait in your hotel room until a man, even a co-worker, arrives to pick you up and has the hotel call up to your room to tell you "Monsieur" has arrived. Even if he has to park in a lot and take a ticket. There's no, "I'll be there at this time" with the expectation that you'll be waiting outside or watching to run out and jump in.
I've never minded chivalry, so this suits me just fine, even if it does mean learning a lot of little details about how the cultures differ!
Of course, this same friend says that I have a French soul, so perhaps I have rejected my home country in some ways.
I'd like to think that, rather than rejecting the US and US culture in choosing to move, it's more that I can see the pros and cons of both countries and have acknowledged that French culture suits my natural personality better. There are aspects of US culture that feel unnatural to me or fake (and always have), yet the "norm" in French culture is more consistent with how I'd prefer to live my life and interact with others.
Having said that, there are things that are still an adjustment, such as learning that you generally wait in your hotel room until a man, even a co-worker, arrives to pick you up and has the hotel call up to your room to tell you "Monsieur" has arrived. Even if he has to park in a lot and take a ticket. There's no, "I'll be there at this time" with the expectation that you'll be waiting outside or watching to run out and jump in.
I've never minded chivalry, so this suits me just fine, even if it does mean learning a lot of little details about how the cultures differ!
Thursday, September 22, 2016
Leaving to France in About One Week
Well, everything moved along quickly - more quickly than I'd expected, but within the original timeline. I will arrive in France on October 2!
The process actually went very smoothly with the French government. The work permit was approved right after the August "holidays" in less than one week. Fortunately, I was also able to snag an appointment with the Consulate in mid-September due to a cancellation and my visa is now on the way via tracked mail.
Once I had the legal immigration formalities out of the way, it was time to concern myself with practical things, like finalizing my work contract (it's a big deal in France since there's no such thing as "at-will" employment there) and my house contract. While I didn't get a house in town, like I'd wanted, I was able to find a really lovely home with a lot of natural light and exposed wood that is only a short drive away. It's a perfect short-term furnished rental until my stuff arrives by boat.
The French lessons also went well and I'm excited to return and try out my French. I've been writing my French co-workers largely in French, but speaking in French still feels challenging.
I'm looking forward to returning to France with all of the cultural differences, language faux pas and my new work responsibilities. And getting back to my French friends! My plan is to consistently post about my adventures in France every Thursday.
The process actually went very smoothly with the French government. The work permit was approved right after the August "holidays" in less than one week. Fortunately, I was also able to snag an appointment with the Consulate in mid-September due to a cancellation and my visa is now on the way via tracked mail.
Once I had the legal immigration formalities out of the way, it was time to concern myself with practical things, like finalizing my work contract (it's a big deal in France since there's no such thing as "at-will" employment there) and my house contract. While I didn't get a house in town, like I'd wanted, I was able to find a really lovely home with a lot of natural light and exposed wood that is only a short drive away. It's a perfect short-term furnished rental until my stuff arrives by boat.
The French lessons also went well and I'm excited to return and try out my French. I've been writing my French co-workers largely in French, but speaking in French still feels challenging.
I'm looking forward to returning to France with all of the cultural differences, language faux pas and my new work responsibilities. And getting back to my French friends! My plan is to consistently post about my adventures in France every Thursday.
Thursday, June 30, 2016
Moving to France!
It took me about 2 weeks to really settle back into life in the US, which makes me wonder if I'll ever really feel settled here when I come back to visit?
Yes, that's correct - visit. My company has authorized starting immigration proceedings with the intent that I will transfer to France (with a promotion) in September or October of this year! This is hardly a fast or easy process for those not familiar with it.
On a personal level, I've started to sort through all of the things I don't use on a day-to-day basis to make a toss/donate/pack decision. Since it's expected to be a 3 to 5 year commitment, I'm trying to avoid storing anything here and I kind of like using this as an opportunity to go minimalist! The pile of stuff I'm getting rid of is already 3 times larger than what I'm planning to pack and keep. I am realizing that I'll have quite a bill to replace all of my electrical items though!
Anyone need a 110V portable air conditioner???
Yes, that's correct - visit. My company has authorized starting immigration proceedings with the intent that I will transfer to France (with a promotion) in September or October of this year! This is hardly a fast or easy process for those not familiar with it.
- You have to figure out exactly WHICH French work visa applies to your particular situation (my company uses outside counsel for this process due to the complexity) and then the employer & employee have to agree on a French employment contract that complies with those requirements.
- The French employer submits the correct paperwork and French employment contract to French authorities.
- If they approve your work permit, the documentation is transferred to your local French Consulate in the US and you receive notice to schedule a visa appointment.
- France fingerprints visa applicants, so you must go IN PERSON to the nearest consulate. In my case, that's in San Francisco (which apparently has a shortage of staff and is seriously backed up with a FULL 45 day appointment calendar basically all the time)
- After processing time, your visa will be approved or denied. This processing time varies greatly - from 10 days at the LA consulate to TWENTY ONE days at the SF consulate. In other words, if you live in the area served by SF, the French don't really care if you ever make it to their country (kidding, kidding . . . but not really)
On a personal level, I've started to sort through all of the things I don't use on a day-to-day basis to make a toss/donate/pack decision. Since it's expected to be a 3 to 5 year commitment, I'm trying to avoid storing anything here and I kind of like using this as an opportunity to go minimalist! The pile of stuff I'm getting rid of is already 3 times larger than what I'm planning to pack and keep. I am realizing that I'll have quite a bill to replace all of my electrical items though!
Anyone need a 110V portable air conditioner???
Saturday, June 11, 2016
Returning to the US
I had combed through some ex-pat blogs as my return to the US was coming up and I was curious what the experience of others had been. While my first trip abroad certainly expanded my worldview, subsequent trips to places like Guatemala and Egypt had further changed the way I see the world and people around me.
I can tell you that this is nothing compared to a return home after living abroad for several months. My prior trips had taught me, first, that the US worldview is not shared globally and had challenged me to question the way world events are reported (or not, as the case may be) based on how I saw the same events reported and perceived in other countries. I also saw how differently world history is taught, although, admittedly other countries have the same tendency to focus on their part. For example, WWII is heavy on Pearl Harbor in the US, but Pearl Harbor is a blip on the radar in WWII sites in Europe. Where the US tends to bury its own Antisemitic and Eugenics history, Western Europe tends to openly own theirs and challenges people not to repeat the mistakes of the past.
My trips to Guatemala and Egypt helped me to better understand the level of desperation that would result in people risking their lives to cross deserts or oceans in the hope of a better life - the hope of having adequate shelter, being able to feed their children, to not worry about their house flooding each time it rains. When you're shown where the "rich" people live and it's basically a standard US ranch home on maybe a 1/4 acre, it really drives home that most of us in the US are wealthy by global standards - that the "rich" in many countries live in poorer conditions than the lower-middle class in the US. In fact, the "middle class" in many countries live in areas we'd refer to as "slums" here. Only someone lacking empathy could fail to feel compassion for those who lack our opportunities merely due to the country they were born in.
This adjustment has been even more challenging so far. Right now, everything feels unfamiliar to me. My car has more responsive gas, brakes and steering, which has me peeling out and braking hard on accident. I also keep trying to shift and clutch. My house also feels unfamiliar - I'd forgotten my new neighbors have two dogs that bark constantly; I learned in my one day home that they also fight, slam doors and curse at each other from outside the open front door (fortunately, I can't hear much of what goes on inside the apartment unless they're close to the shared wall). I've acquired a new neighbor in my building who drives the car parked next to mine. I can't remember where all of my things are (primarily those I use infrequently) and I open drawers and am surprised by the contents. I reach out for my phone to the left of my bed, where it was in France, rather than the right. I'm having to adjust to turning lights on by flipping switches up instead of down. I haven't experienced the same sense of not feeling at home that longer term ex-pats describe, but I certainly feel just slightly out-of-place.
After so long away, you don't only notice the big cultural things, but the small ones also. How Americans rush through eating - barely swallowing before shoving the next bite in and surely not taking the time to really savor the taste of their food (for good reason in some cases) and how we're also rushed through eating by servers, with the next course appearing before the last is finished and the check showing up while you're still halfway through dinner. Also, I've noticed how aggressively entitled we are when driving - god forbid you're in somebody's way when they're in a hurry, but if somebody wants to drive slowly in the left lane, well they have the "right" to drive there and you can just wait! I miss the orderly system of driving right and passing left in France! Driving here is much more anxiety-inducing and frustrating.
You also realize how loud Americans are. In France, it's rare to really overhear a full conversation from another table and even more rare that any sort of music is playing above a very low volume. Most rail cars are quiet cars and you step out into the connecting area to take calls, meaning we don't all get to hear the intimate details of people's personal lives. French people also are much less inclined to talk just to hear themselves talk. You realize upon returning to the US that people loudly tell stories about things they're incensed about because it seems they want to be overheard and for others to share in their outrage - not that I think people realize this or do it consciously, but it's clear when you observe it from the outside; the way someone will tell the story about the trashy girl their ex is dating and how his WHOLE family hates her and can't believe he left you, then they subtly look around at others as if gauging whether perfect strangers agree that this is appalling.
And yes, this is a true example of a conversation that loudly took place near me in my one day of being back in the US. I also heard another one about somebody cheating, a mom making underhanded comments about how it must be difficult for her daughter to adjust back to a normal schedule after a week with her dad with "no rules, no bedtime, getting to eat whatever she wanted," about the girl and her boyfriend who keep breaking up and getting back together and people arguing about whether or not the inappropriate story a man was telling was acceptable given the place wasn't "classy" to begin with. All in less than 24 hours. We're loud, folks. And we apparently don't care if strangers around us hear the intimate personal details of our lives whether they want to our not (and trust me, I didn't).
This isn't to say everything is better in France. It's much more common here that we'll strike up a conversation with a stranger about our flight delay and commiserate together over it - even watch each other's luggage for restroom breaks after. Or discover you're both continuing on to Portland and the more experienced International traveler (me) will assist the other in clearing all the re-entry hurdles, forming a brief friendship of sorts. The French are much more stand-offish when it comes to strangers, so these things are not typical there; however, if you're a woman with heavy luggage, you can expect French men will volunteer to carry it up stairs and load/unload it from the train for you, they just won't expect this to turn into a conversation after. They help and are on their way.
The French also don't talk just to be polite beyond "Bonjour." Whereas we're expected to ask, "how are you?" With an expected response of, "Fine" or "Good" and to remember various personal things about co-workers, like how many kids they have, approximate ages, pets, that Fluffy had surgery recently, etc. whether we actually care or even like the person, this is not the French way. If a French person asks how you're doing, they actually care. If they ask what you're doing for the weekend or where you're going on vacation, it isn't polite small talk, but expresses an actual interest in how you spend your time - in other words, something you'd ask a co-worker who's also a friend or you're friendly with, but not every person you work with. In fact, if you ask and aren't personally friendly, it's viewed as invasive and likely won't be answered - hence the perception by both cultures that the others are rude. Which culture is better probably depends on the person, but as a slight introvert, once I understood the "why" behind the French way, I found it rather freeing that there was no expectation that I show an interest in the personal lives of people I barely know. It was also more meaningful when somebody did volunteer info about their family or vacation or weekend because it indicates you've become friendly outside just "co-workers." While it might be rude by US standards not to feign a polite interest in people you really don't care about, at least the French are keeping it real!
The US has one strong positive going for it in my book though - crispy bacon! Bet you can guess what my first American breakfast included! Oh, and my memory foam bed welcomed me home in the best way possible - if I ever relocate, the one piece of furniture that is for sure going with me is that bed! Most comfortable bed I've ever slept on!
I can tell you that this is nothing compared to a return home after living abroad for several months. My prior trips had taught me, first, that the US worldview is not shared globally and had challenged me to question the way world events are reported (or not, as the case may be) based on how I saw the same events reported and perceived in other countries. I also saw how differently world history is taught, although, admittedly other countries have the same tendency to focus on their part. For example, WWII is heavy on Pearl Harbor in the US, but Pearl Harbor is a blip on the radar in WWII sites in Europe. Where the US tends to bury its own Antisemitic and Eugenics history, Western Europe tends to openly own theirs and challenges people not to repeat the mistakes of the past.
My trips to Guatemala and Egypt helped me to better understand the level of desperation that would result in people risking their lives to cross deserts or oceans in the hope of a better life - the hope of having adequate shelter, being able to feed their children, to not worry about their house flooding each time it rains. When you're shown where the "rich" people live and it's basically a standard US ranch home on maybe a 1/4 acre, it really drives home that most of us in the US are wealthy by global standards - that the "rich" in many countries live in poorer conditions than the lower-middle class in the US. In fact, the "middle class" in many countries live in areas we'd refer to as "slums" here. Only someone lacking empathy could fail to feel compassion for those who lack our opportunities merely due to the country they were born in.
Common housing in an area that I sponsor children in
After so long away, you don't only notice the big cultural things, but the small ones also. How Americans rush through eating - barely swallowing before shoving the next bite in and surely not taking the time to really savor the taste of their food (for good reason in some cases) and how we're also rushed through eating by servers, with the next course appearing before the last is finished and the check showing up while you're still halfway through dinner. Also, I've noticed how aggressively entitled we are when driving - god forbid you're in somebody's way when they're in a hurry, but if somebody wants to drive slowly in the left lane, well they have the "right" to drive there and you can just wait! I miss the orderly system of driving right and passing left in France! Driving here is much more anxiety-inducing and frustrating.
You also realize how loud Americans are. In France, it's rare to really overhear a full conversation from another table and even more rare that any sort of music is playing above a very low volume. Most rail cars are quiet cars and you step out into the connecting area to take calls, meaning we don't all get to hear the intimate details of people's personal lives. French people also are much less inclined to talk just to hear themselves talk. You realize upon returning to the US that people loudly tell stories about things they're incensed about because it seems they want to be overheard and for others to share in their outrage - not that I think people realize this or do it consciously, but it's clear when you observe it from the outside; the way someone will tell the story about the trashy girl their ex is dating and how his WHOLE family hates her and can't believe he left you, then they subtly look around at others as if gauging whether perfect strangers agree that this is appalling.
And yes, this is a true example of a conversation that loudly took place near me in my one day of being back in the US. I also heard another one about somebody cheating, a mom making underhanded comments about how it must be difficult for her daughter to adjust back to a normal schedule after a week with her dad with "no rules, no bedtime, getting to eat whatever she wanted," about the girl and her boyfriend who keep breaking up and getting back together and people arguing about whether or not the inappropriate story a man was telling was acceptable given the place wasn't "classy" to begin with. All in less than 24 hours. We're loud, folks. And we apparently don't care if strangers around us hear the intimate personal details of our lives whether they want to our not (and trust me, I didn't).
This isn't to say everything is better in France. It's much more common here that we'll strike up a conversation with a stranger about our flight delay and commiserate together over it - even watch each other's luggage for restroom breaks after. Or discover you're both continuing on to Portland and the more experienced International traveler (me) will assist the other in clearing all the re-entry hurdles, forming a brief friendship of sorts. The French are much more stand-offish when it comes to strangers, so these things are not typical there; however, if you're a woman with heavy luggage, you can expect French men will volunteer to carry it up stairs and load/unload it from the train for you, they just won't expect this to turn into a conversation after. They help and are on their way.
The French also don't talk just to be polite beyond "Bonjour." Whereas we're expected to ask, "how are you?" With an expected response of, "Fine" or "Good" and to remember various personal things about co-workers, like how many kids they have, approximate ages, pets, that Fluffy had surgery recently, etc. whether we actually care or even like the person, this is not the French way. If a French person asks how you're doing, they actually care. If they ask what you're doing for the weekend or where you're going on vacation, it isn't polite small talk, but expresses an actual interest in how you spend your time - in other words, something you'd ask a co-worker who's also a friend or you're friendly with, but not every person you work with. In fact, if you ask and aren't personally friendly, it's viewed as invasive and likely won't be answered - hence the perception by both cultures that the others are rude. Which culture is better probably depends on the person, but as a slight introvert, once I understood the "why" behind the French way, I found it rather freeing that there was no expectation that I show an interest in the personal lives of people I barely know. It was also more meaningful when somebody did volunteer info about their family or vacation or weekend because it indicates you've become friendly outside just "co-workers." While it might be rude by US standards not to feign a polite interest in people you really don't care about, at least the French are keeping it real!
The US has one strong positive going for it in my book though - crispy bacon! Bet you can guess what my first American breakfast included! Oh, and my memory foam bed welcomed me home in the best way possible - if I ever relocate, the one piece of furniture that is for sure going with me is that bed! Most comfortable bed I've ever slept on!
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