Prussian Palaces, Berliner Dom and a River Cruise!

After sleeping in a little, I woke up still sick and headed to Schloss Charlottenburg.  When I saw the outside, I wasn't overly impressed and wondered if I even wanted to go in.  There was some sort of side building that had the ubiquitous dome on top, which I thought was pretty.

The main palace was under construction though!  This became a major theme during my time in Berlin - it is very much a city still recovering from major damage from the war and the issues that followed with the division of the city.  I tried to strategically photograph it so the construction isn't as noticeable.

Have I mentioned the weather was perfect?  I thought I'd at least look at the large park area and found the colors in the simple front gardens to be quite stunning.

I finally decided that, even if I'd seen plenty of chateaus, I hadn't seen a Prussian palace yet and knew virtually nothing about the history of Prussia, so I went in.  Frederick the Great was actually Frederick the 2nd.  The oldest parts of the palace are largely closed, but the wing of Frederick II was open.  This place at least discounted the ticket due to the partial closure!  As soon as I entered the second room I knew I'd be seeing a much different style!

The metal decoration was certainly a big theme here, although it continued in silver in other rooms.  This clock could be in my dream house too.

There were some later chambers decorated by the King's mistress, Countess von Lichtenau, which were much more similar in style to 18th Century French rooms - this room's claim to fame is that Napoleon apparently stayed in it at one time.

After wandering the grounds and resting a bit, it was time for lunch and to find Internet as Tina's English test was possibly ending soon.  I hadn't seen the Zoolischer Garden area yet and headed in that direction.  I found a great lunch where they called sandwiches "bags" and I could see the Gedächtniskirche or Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, which is kept as a reminder of the war.  It did get a little difficult over the course of my time in the city to absorb the extent of the destruction.  In WWII, bombings clearly weren't limited to military sites, although you never really get the feeling they're blaming the Allied troops.  The signs seem to be more of a statement to the Germans about what declaring war a couple of times really cost them as a country.

Tina was done with her English test, so she met me at the restaurant, then we headed for Museum Island.  I took this photo that is very representative of Berlin - beautiful, but a city under construction.

The Prussian influence is really noticeable everywhere, even in the design of the main Cathedral, the Berliner Dom.  I really enjoyed seeing the different influence here and the contrast to the style of the Franks of France.

While German bears much more resemblance to English, with having many recognizable words, the meaning of some have changed, for example, while this means "pleasure garden" in English, I'm assuming the Germans don't intend you to use the garden for the types of activities that the name implies in modern English.

The background left is the Altes (old) Museum, which I may see tomorrow.  I've been told the Pergamon & Neues museums are "must see" places though.  Since Tina is recovering from a bug and I'm still sick, we were dragging by this point and decided the ultra-touristy river boat was a good idea!  It was good for some stunning photos of a brick facade, Berliner Dom, Reichstag, Bode Museum and another of Berliner Dom - I loved the look of this place, if you can't tell!

After having a lovely Italian dinner in honor of our meeting in Rome, we were both ready to call it a night!  Special thanks to Tina for meeting up with me to hang out in Berlin!  The timing of my visit ended up being perfect as she has her own exciting adventure starting in 3 weeks when she heads to Australia to teach!

By the way, I don't think I emphasized enough the "no credit card" thing.  Bag Yard, where we had lunch took them.  That is the only place I've come across in two days.

A Little Bit of Everything in Berlin

I flew rather than taking the train to Berlin because it was cheaper and faster!  Make sure to check a site like Kayak or another metasite as I flew here with an upgrade for about $40 on Euro wings.  Of course, I basically wasted my Thursday off in Paris because I was too sick to feel up to doing anything.  The most "exciting" part of my day was a younger Iranian guy chatting me up to tell me he's hoping to find an American wife so he can move to the US someday as he's a big fan of Michael Jackson.  Eventually he took the hint that I wasn't interested and moved along.

The next day I still wasn't feeling so great, but I headed out anyway.  On my way to the sites, I came across this gate dated 1839-1879, but with no other indication as to what it is.  I looked it up and learned it's all that remains of the Anhalter Bahnhof, which was a major rail station from the East before it was largely destroyed by air raids in WWII.  The fact that it sat in the West and served the East meant it ceased to be used when the city was divided.

Then I was on my way to one of the major tourist sites - Brandenburger Tor (Gate), which originated in 1791.  While it once divided Berlin, it's seen as a symbol of unity today.  The statute on top also survived both wars and is seen as lucky!

Walking along the road to the right brought me to the Holocaust Memorial.  It's designed like a maze and it was particularly moving to see flowers had been left. 

I thought I'd missed my chance to see the Reichstag view because the site showed nothing open for any of my dates, so I was then off to Potsdamer Platz for a look at the "new Berlin" and the view from the Panoramapunkt deck (in the brick building below).

The views were stunning!  Even if you get into the Reichstag, the display at the to,p (in English & German) about the history of Potsdamer Platz with old photos, was worth the visit.

After enjoying the view, I decided to head towards Checkpoint Charlie.  On my way there, I came across this lovely building - it houses a museum currently.

I then happened upon the Topography of Terror.  It is a free site that not only preserved original sections of the wall, but has a fascinating museum about Hitler's rise to power - including that it occurred partially because so many people were unhappy with the poor conditions after WWI.  Hitler was originally perceived as somebody who would bring internal peace and security, plus boost the economy.  Initially these things happened, but they were gearing up for what was to come.  Then started the slippery slope of demonizing those who couldn't work (for various reasons) as taking away from the Volk (aka People's) State.  And we all know what eventually followed.  It's important to note that Germany was a democracy before Hitler's party instituted martial law basically and had armed people present when the legislature voted itself out of existence.

Given the time spent at the Topography of Terror, I decided it was time for a break and noticed a Currywurst option.  This is a local specialty, but is basically a sausage with ketchup seasoned with curry.  The first version I had was good though!  When I went to pay, I started to wonder at the "no credit cards" thing because it came up buying the transit pass, at the deck and for lunch.  My friend, Tina, later confirmed that credit cards haven't really caught on in the area yet - be prepared to bring or get Euros!!!

After lunch, I made it to Checkpoint Charlie and found it very touristy.  The checkpoint is the original from what I understand, but I doubt we actually have military there still.  You still have a lovely "East meets West" view with McDonald's right there though.

Since I was still sick, it was time for a rest and to check if my German friend, Tina, who I met on my 2009 trip, was in town yet.  Once we met up, we headed towards Unter den Linden, which is an area with a lot of Prussian architecture remaining.  We saw this lovely building on the way - not sure what it is though. 

The Prussian style is certainly different than the common French styles I've seen.  Green and gold domes are a strong theme, as are large sculptures of men and men on horseback.

As we headed back around, there was a line for entry to the Reichstag dome, but as we stood waiting, Tina was able to get us tickets online!  They were for 9:45, which turned out to be perfect as the view is incredible at night!  There are certain moments you have traveling that will stick with you for life and lying around looking up at the stars in Berlin from the center of the Reichstag is certainly one!

Before making it there though, we wandered down to Alexander Platz, where the TV tower is located.  I will note this was all walking at this point and, by the end of the day, I had walked a record number of steps!  While this thing towers over the city, it's not until you're standing under it that you really grasp how tall it actually is!  The top design is also very Prussian.

It was close to our time for the dome tour, so we headed back.  I was only able to get this last shot of Brandenburger Tor at night though before my phone battery died!  No pictures from the dome for me :-(

As a side note while I'm thinking about it, virtually everyone in Berlin speaks decent English.  Even the people who thought I was French, due to my inability to quit using French courtesy words, switch to English because it's kind of the default second language.  It is not at all difficult to get around Berlin without knowing any German.  I barely remember any from high school and I've really only used "dänke" or thanks.

Living (and Loving) the Island Life! And do NOT use "Bit" in France!!!

Before I forget, I have to share an amusing translation issue again!  It is common for Americans to say, "in a little bit" or "just a little bit" . . . so imagine our horror when, after a year for my American co-worker and almost 2 months for me, someone finally bothered to tell us that "bit" is a slang French term for male "parts."  Even funnier was watching the French guys die laughing about it, "little bit, little bit . . . I was wondering how does she know?"  Yeah . . . be warned that "pine" as in pine tree is also off limits!  This conversation came about as a result of us telling them that they could NOT translate a product as "nut bag" (or nut sack) in English since it can either mean a crazy person or, well, slang for other male "parts."  Ah yes, the fun that comes along with words having a much different meaning in other languages!  Even more awkward is needing to have them at WORK to ensure there aren't language snafus for your coworkers or company.

So, despite being ill, I started my day off by driving to the island of Île de Ré.  First off, the main attraction here is apparently a lighthouse, which was really nice and all . . . but it costs 8 Euro to get onto the island.  I promise you the lighthouse is not worth 11.20 Euro with the entry fee!  If your only interest is a lighthouse, go to Biarritz or something.

Having said that, I'd recommend visiting, but for more than just the lighthouse!  There are lovely beaches, old abbey ruins and a couple of adorable towns . . . plus, donkeys in pants apparently!  While the donkeys had no pants this time, they are super shaggy and adorable!  On my way to the abbey ruins, I stopped by a coffee shop and had my now usual "French breakfast" - pain au chocolat and espresso.  I should note here that while I was between the 2nd & 3rd hole on my belt when I arrived, I now have to use the 1st hole (smallest) - again, how can you not love a country where you eat chocolate for breakfast and dessert with virtually every lunch, yet lose weight?

After soaking in a bit of the sunshine, it was off to the abbey!  Somehow in my many adventures here, I've yet to visit an abbey, so these ruins were my first.  It was actually rather stunning to see it because they've kept the area cleared - you can pull out to take a photo of it at a distance or walk around inside.  I opted for the close-up trip!

Upon approaching the lighthouse . . . well, that is nearly an 11 Euro view!  What a gorgeous day!  And it really does stand out nicely against such a blue sky!

This is about the point when I started wondering what I'd gotten myself into, especially with being sick!  Really?  A lighthouse?  Who climbs up a lighthouse sick?!?

Having made it to the top though - what a view!  Again, *maybe* an 11 Euro view . . . maybe.  I haven't seen any other lighthouses here yet, so it's hard to compare!  The first view was of the "old" lighthouse, which is funny since the "new" lighthouse is from the 1800s.

Ah . . . not so bad when this is the beach that is 90 minutes from your house!  On my way down, I had to take one more picture of the lovely staircase and the date on the floor at the bottom - 1845 is the year of the new lighthouse, to be specific!  Shortly before this shot, the young boy in the photo was well in front of his group and moving quickly when he tripped and started to fall past me . . . years of being an older sister have apparently left me with quick reflexes though as I caught him before he fell too far!  He was solidly in the middle of the adults after that!

I'm in Love!

with La Rochelle that is.  Don't get too excited!!!  First off, I'm definitely a budget traveler when it comes to hotels (see prior blogs on this), but I scored a bargain on the place in this town (Hotel de la Paix)!  It was the nicest looking room I've had, plus the location was stellar!  I certainly appreciate a nice room, even if it isn't a priority (since I'm hardly in them).  The room was tiny, but that's one thing I appreciate about Europe - you have the option to pick a "junior" room or sometimes even a "single" at a discounted price.

I was walking distance from the market and the WWII bunker that had been found intact during a construction project, so I headed that way.

The bunker was really interesting, but would have been a bust for somebody who had no French at all . . . unless you buy the extra 5 Euro book.  I didn't see the book until I was leaving, but I'd recommend it as it translates the signs and includes several nice photos as a keepsake item.  It was really interesting to see this space, which had been occupied by Nazis, painted by women who were traveling with them and to read about La Rochelle while occupied.  Contrary to some of the stereotypes about the French, a significant number of people in the city joined the Resistance and tried to thwart the Nazis.  FUN FACT: once the US broke German code using Enigma, the life expectancy of a German submariner was THREE WEEKS.

All of these little coastal towns tend to center around the port, so after I finished at the bunker, I walked toward the port.  The port area was the central hub as usual!  Plenty of shops, restaurants and, of course, sidewalk cafes!  La Rochelle is known for the two towers on it's port, shown below; however, there is a third tower.  Since the towers were closed for a lunch break, I walked to the furthest third tower first.

As I headed there, I noticed the remnants of yet ANOTHER old city wall.  I just love these old city gates and how decorative they all seem to be!

The third tower demonstrates something I've noticed in other places - there seems to have been a typical "castle" defensive tower built . . . and later, a pretty dome added or a nice extra tower.  If you notice the tiny railing near the top, that is where the next picture was taken from!

Here is a close up of the "pretty part" of the tower:

The views were stunning from the tops of all of the towers, but each tower had a different theme inside.  This tower had preserved carvings made by prisoners who were held here at various times.  Here is a particularly nice one from 1872 - many of them included boats or ships.

At about the time I entered the second tower, it occurred to me that my scratchy throat wasn't random and I was actually getting sick :-(  Given how pretty and relaxing the city was, I decided that scaling back on what I would see was a good plan!  The second tower had various items about the French colonization of Canada and America.  You have to love the map with "Barbary" and "New France" on it!

Upon reaching the top, the view of both the third tower and the first (main) tower were well worth it!  Such a gorgeous place!

As I walked around to the first tower (there is no crossing between them), I took one more lovely picture of the old port . . . and this bird decided to pop in at just the right time!

The main tower didn't have a particular display, but rather a paper guide that walked you through how the tower was used (as a home at one point), which was interesting, but overall the tower tours weren't super fascinating; however, the views were worth the money!  One thing that is oddly common in France (and Belgium) is very artistic and colorful graffiti.  It just seems to be everywhere in random places!

All-in-all, certainly visit the town of La Rochelle!  Even the little bridges here are pretty:

I also appreciated that, when I bought cold medicine, the French seem to acknowledge that, well, your brain doesn't function properly when sick and you might need assistance remembering if you've taken your medicine . . . voila - medicine packs that include a reminder of when to take them!

I wrapped up my time in La Rochelle the next day with noticing that even the PARKING entrances are pretty . . . and the horses on the really old carousel here were just creepy looking!!!

Tips for Traveling in Europe - Planes, Trains and Automobiles

Trains

• Make sure you check what station your trains are arriving and leaving from!  Many of the large cities in France have more than one station.  For example, I arrived at Marseille Blanchard and left from Marseille St Charles.  If you are connecting in Paris, it is not uncommon that your inbound and outbound Paris station may be different.  There will be a long enough connection time (in my experience), but pay attention to the specific station listed and plan to transfer by Metro or other means.
• Work-specific: If staying near Civray rather than Poitiers, check fares from Ruffec.  Parking there is free and the tickets are often priced similarly or cheaper than those from Poitiers (where parking can be quite expensive at the train station).
• Even if you can drive somewhere, check the trains.  I've found a number of cities where the train time was less than driving - sometimes a couple of hours less!  Plus, you get to sit back and relax while on the train!

Planes

• For budget travelers, while Ryan Air is dirt cheap, they often fly to alternative airports.  When comparing prices, make sure you factor in the cost of the train ticket (or Ryan Air's bus) to/from these distant airports.  In some cases, I've found that the Ryan Air airfare plus the train/bus ticket was more than flying with another carrier directly into the primary airport.  Alternatively, I've found that taking the train the whole way was cheaper and just as fast (by the time you factor in the need to arrive at the airport 2 hours early).
• Unlike most of the train stations, which are typically centrally located or connected into metro networks, the airports are often located 30 minutes or so out of the main city.  Make sure you factor in the time and cost associated with the airport location.
• When traveling longer distances, price both an overnight train (assuming you can sleep on them) and a flight plus hotel.  In some cases, I've found the overnight train to be a better deal (French, Italian and German trains are reasonably priced, although I found both French & German bunks rather uncomfortable; on Scottish trains I've found great bargains and they had the nicest accommodations!) and in other cases, I found it was cheaper to fly and book a hotel (Spanish night trains are rather expensive).

Automobiles

• Realistically, there are some places you just are not getting to without a car.  Civray would be one of those places!  Even if you don't have a car your whole trip, you may find you need to rent one in order to see everywhere you want to go.
• Cars provide maximum flexibility, but they also come with some added hassles.  I've never driven while on an international vacation, so this is my first experience with it.  One of the things that I forget to account for is that parking is often limited, especially free parking, in many of the cities I've visited, so you end up having to hunt down a parking space or a garage . . . which can come with a much heftier fee than you'd expect!
• Most of these towns were built a LONG time ago - before cars.  This means a lot of really narrow streets, at times having to pull over to let the other direction of traffic pass (these areas are marked with which direction has right-of-way OR if parking is on your side, the other direction has right-of-way).  It also means many one-way streets . . . which can end up feeling like a maze you can't escape from, as happened to me in La Rochelle!
• There's no time to just relax and read a book or engage in other entertainment as with planes and trains - you are driving, with all of the stress and potential accidents that can entail!  On the whole, French drivers are very polite and the risk of accident seems minimal - until a wild animal leaps out into the road in front of you! (Please note my prior near collision with a deer)